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Shirt fabric and collar: how the choice affects the whole look

A dress shirt affects a suit more than many people think. The same suit looks different with a white poplin shirt, soft oxford shirt or relaxed linen shirt.

Poplin is smooth and neat

Poplin is a good choice for celebrations, work and situations where the shirt should look as neat as possible. It looks sharp with a suit and tie.

Oxford is more relaxed

Oxford cloth is slightly thicker and more textured. It works well without a tie, with a sports jacket and in smart casual dressing.

Twill drapes softly

Twill has a diagonal weave that often makes the fabric softer and more lively. It can be a good choice for everyday and work dressing.

Linen breathes in summer

A linen shirt suits summer, travel and more relaxed formal dressing. It wrinkles, but that is exactly what makes the look natural.

The collar is chosen according to face shape and use

  • A cutaway collar works well with a tie and opens the face.
  • A button-down collar suits more relaxed dressing.
  • A classic collar is a safe choice for most situations.
  • For a tailcoat shirt or tuxedo shirt, the collar is chosen according to formalwear rules.

In a made-to-measure shirt, sleeve length, body ease, cuffs and buttons can also be adjusted to suit the whole.

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